Let’s head off on an exploration of two of Yilan County’s charming rural townships, Dongshan and Yuanshan. Close neighbors in the northern foothills of the Xueshan Range and the Central Mountain Range, these scenic townships are home to a host of compelling tourist attractions and unique accommodation options, with a selection of the best specially introduced in this article.
Dongshan Township is in the south of the triangular-shaped Yilan Plain (also called the Lanyang Plain), while Yuanshan Township is in its central-west sector. Beyond their flatland areas on the plain, both also encompass substantial foothill areas. The townships are known for their enchanting scenery, natural surroundings, and agricultural activities. Admittedly, I haven’t paid much attention to places on the Yilan Plain when traveling to the eastern parts of Taiwan in the past. I have usually headed straight to the coast or into the high mountains. After recently exploring Dongshan and Yuanshan, however, I’ve found myself falling in love with the beauty of this side of Yilan as well.
Dongshan and Yuanshan are a bit off the beaten path for the majority who travel around Taiwan, both locals and, especially, travelers from overseas. These areas, however, are incredibly vibrant, with placid waterways weaving through a great green expanse of paddy fields. They are perfect destinations for travelers who want to get outside hustling and bustling cities such as Taipei. Beyond the scenes of beauty, there is artistic flair and indigenous culture to experience as well. Among the blooming field of unique businesses are colorful homestays, cozy cafés, and an award-winning whisky distillery.
Below I will go over a handful of fun travel ideas for you to explore in Dongshan and Yuanshan.
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Dongshan Railway Station
The Dongshan Railway Station was the first railway station in Taiwan to be redeveloped as a tourist attraction. The project, completed in 2008, transformed it into the island’s first elevated railway station. The station’s roof structure features gigantic steel loops meant to resemble the framing of the arched pergolas used to grow gourds. The uniquely appealing design is a favorite with photographers.
Below and around the station are numerous art installations highlighting farm life, trains, kites, and other local-culture themes. There are playgrounds and “classrooms” for children to enjoy as well. Admission to the station for those who just want to have a look inside, without taking a train, is NT$6, and the platform ticket (yuetai piao) can be taken home as a souvenir!
While the Dongshan Railway Station is a tourist attraction in and of itself, it is also a travel hub for those who come by train to explore Yilan. There are a number of tourist attractions and fine eateries close by. Within walking distance from the station are, for example, the Dongshan EcoArk, Dongshan Kite Museum, Dongshan Old Street, and Dongshan Night Market. The town of Dongshan’s streets are filled with colorful murals, sculptures, and other artworks, matching the natural vibrancy of the Yilan Plain.
Getting there: Dongshan’s station is small, mainly served by local trains. To get there from Taipei or Hualien, take an Express train to Yilan Station or Luodong Station, then take a local train to Dongshan Station.
Dongshan River EcoArk
The Dongshan River EcoArk, also referred to as the Dongshan River Forest Park, is located just northwest of the Dongshan Railway Station. Opened in 2016 after two decades of planning and construction efforts, this area was developed to serve as an environmental reserve that encourages green tourism. The park plays a crucial role as a local ecological sanctuary, hosting numerous species of birds, reptiles, and amphibians alongside a diverse array of native plant life. Inside its 16 hectares are meandering pathways, children’s playgrounds, and birdwatching platforms for enthusiasts. Visitors can expect to see Cattle Egrets with their distinctive orange-brown heads, Lesser Egrets, Common Moorhens, and Black Drongos amidst the open grasslands and riverbanks. Migratory birds also frequently stop by.
You can easily explore the park on foot following the pathways. For a more relaxing option, cross the wood plank pedestrian bridge beside the railway bridge in the northern part of the park and look for the riverboat landing stage. There, guided electric boat rides (40min.; NT$70) are available, during which you’ll follow the waterways that meander through the park’s forested northern section.
Getting there: The park is a short walk northwest from Dongshan Railway Station.
Artemis Garden
Situated close to Yuanshan Township’s foothills and surrounded by emerald rice paddies, the Artemis Garden is Taiwan’s largest greenhouse, and the island’s first museum dedicated to floral fragrance. It was established in 2012 with the simple idea of sparking joy with the help of beautiful and aromatic flowers. The greenhouse is filled with flowers, trees, and herbs, the rich fragrances of which fill the air. Magnolias, Gardenias, Orange Jessamines, and myriad other types of flowers emit incredibly aromatic fragrances. The delicious scents seem to drift out to greet you immediately upon arrival.
The Artemis Garden is also much more than just a massive greenhouse. Inside the building is a large buffet restaurant (lunch), which becomes a garden-style oasis for tea in the afternoon. Enjoy tea made with grown-in-house herbs, such as rosemary and spearmint green tea. During lunch, you can also order dishes, for example pork chop, perfectly cooked, with fresh-cut rosemary and pepper, and garnished with various flowers grown in the greenhouse. Above this section, visitors can follow a skywalk to get a better view of the trees and the various hanging flowers from above. In the DIY section of the building you can experience how to make soap, essential oil, and potted plants.
Planning a wedding? The Artemis Garden is a gorgeous hall for wedding receptions as well! Since the flowers within are changed every week, there is a guaranteed fresh fragrance infusing the venue at all times.
Meeting Miracle Homestay
This fantastically colored homestay, located in the northeast corner of Dongshan Township, sits amidst fields of swaying rice close to the Dongshan River. It is run by two young sisters from the city of Taoyuan, whose family loves Yilan so much that they decided to build a colorful homestay and provide a place for others to enjoy the beautiful land as well. The homestay, in operation since 2017, is a splendid getaway from the big city.
Seen from afar, the rainbow-colored building looks like a magical place, especially during the seasons when the surrounding rice fields appear in golden-green colors. The location is reason enough to book a night in this getaway, and the peaceful atmosphere and family vibe attract visitors as well. Meeting Miracle Homestay is a true gem among Yilan’s many quality homestay operations.
You might experience a feeling of familiarity when arriving at the homestay, especially if you’re a Pixar movie fan. The design inspiration comes from the movie Up, which becomes very apparent once you walk inside. There is a replica of the house featured in the movie, complete with balloons.
There are four separate guestrooms, of various sizes and layouts, all with different color schemes taken from the rainbow. Each room has a balcony with a stunning view – of the surrounding rice fields, a lazy river, and the mountains in the far distance (there are no other buildings in the immediate vicinity).
Room prices vary, ranging from NT$2,900/night on a weekday for the “Setting Sun” double to NT$5,600/night during weekends/holidays for the “Rising Sun” quadruple.
